> ## Content Index
> Fetch the complete content index at: https://www.taiwanquest.com/llms.txt
> Use this file to discover other available public pages before exploring further.

# Huandao Day 2
- URL: https://www.taiwanquest.com/huandao-kenting-to-taitung/
- Published: 2024-01-09T15:43:38.000Z
- Updated: 2025-01-19T04:53:40.000Z
- Description: A slow, wet journey from Kenting to Taitung…
- Author: Zhen-Kang

| Distance               | 160 km  |
| ---------------------- | ------- |
| Ride time (with stops) | 6 hours |
| Bugs in my eye         | 1       |

**The day started well, when I opened the curtains and saw it wasn’t raining. But then I discovered my dashcam was smashed.**

My scooter has front and rear cameras connected to a recording module under the seat. Last night, in the dark, I removed the microSD card to download the day’s footage. Everything seemed fine.

But this morning, I noticed the screen was broken:

![A motorcycle dashcam recording module with a smashed screen.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/motorcycle-dashcam-with-smashed-screen.jpg)

I hadn’t realized yesterday, the plastic buckle of my bag—squeezed into my under-seat compartment—had focused pressure on the screen, causing it to crack. (It can still record.)

Minutes after this discovery, as I turned onto the main road, a bug flew into my eye. And then it started to rain.

So later, when Google Maps suggested a 14-minute-longer route in the direction of clearer skies, I blindly accepted the offer.

It was a mistake.

Soon I was riding on poorly-maintained single-lane mountain roads, in the rain. In safer conditions it would’ve been an exciting ride. But crawling up slippery, narrow, remote roads at 30km/h, counting down the dozens of kilometers until I rejoined civilization, was a slog.

![Looking over the rooftops of Kenting Township. The bay is visible in the distance. The sky is coudy.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/kenting-township-taiwan.jpg)

Kenting Township, just after I woke up. At this point I thought I’d dodged the forecast rain.

![Rice paddies in the foreground, and forest-clad mountains in the distance.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/pingtung-rice-paddies.jpg)

Soon after accepting Google’s detour, I was passing vibrant green rice paddies.

![A painted concrete arch over the road marking the entrance to Mudan Township. Welcome is written in Paiwan, Chinese, and English.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/mudan-township-welcome-gate.jpg)

There was one upside to taking this route: I passed Mudan Township, an indigenous mountain township populated by the Paiwan people. There were red-and-yellow gates at either end, and Paiwan art on all public buildings.

![A painted relief on a bridge. The paintings show people carrying dead animals or hunting animals.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/bridge-in-mudan-township-taiwan.jpg)

Bridges and retaining walls featured Paiwan art, as well.

![Wide-angle view of Mudan Township beneath a large dam filled with water, and surrounded by bush-clad mountains.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/mudan-township-taiwan.jpg)

Mudan sits below this large dam.

![Screenshot of Google Maps on an iPhone showing a winding route ahead, and 4.7km until the next right turn.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/google-maps-screenshot.jpg)

I didn’t take photos once it started raining, so I took a screenshot to remind myself of the torturous-in-the-rain Route 199.

The rain eventually stopped, and somewhere near the top of the mountain I rejoined a road with more than one lane. Coasting down the dry eastern side, with intermittent views over the Philippine Sea, I rediscovered the joy of huandao.

![Forested mountains in the foreground, with the sea visible in the distance.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/philippine-sea-over-taiwan-mountains.jpg)

My first glimpse of the Philippine Sea.

![A scooter parked on the side of a four-lane coastal road, nested between forested mountains and a stony beach.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/sym-mmbcu-scooter-on-taitung-coast.jpg)

I removed my rain jacket to enjoy the relatively warm, dry air.

I stopped at Duoliang Station—reportedly the most beautiful station in all of Taiwan. I can see how that was once true, but it isn’t anymore.

[Don’t be fooled by its Wikipedia entry](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duoliang%5FStation)—that photo was taken before track electrification. Nowadays, the disused station and the sea views are partially-obscured by overhead lines and supporting infrastructure:

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/train-passing-duoliang-station-1.jpg)

This was the least-obscured shot I could get of the station (the part with red handrails). Three passenger trains passed while I was there. The station’s been closed since 2006.

I rode onwards to Taitung City, where I caught up with a former classmate at his famous house ([as featured on his son Xiaofei’s YouTube channel](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oH3r2csutfQ)), and met another friend for dinner.

A good way to end a good-and-bad day.

![Screenshot of a Presidential Alert on an iPhone lock screen. The English part of the alert says: ‘[Air raid Alert] MIssile flyover Taiwan airspace,be aware.’](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/presidential-alert.jpg)

As I was arriving at my friend’s house, I received this Presidential Alert on my phone. The Chinese text translates to: “\[Air Defense Alert\] China launched a satellite at 15:04, it has flown over Southern Taiwan. Please pay attention to safety. If an unknown object is found, call the police to deal with it.” ([The military later apologized for using the word “Missile” in the English text.](https://focustaiwan.tw/politics/202401090018))

![Tray of food including soup, rice, a bowl of braised vegetables, and a side of passionfruit.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/taitung-seasonal-veggie-set-menu.jpg)

At dinner, the ‘Taitung Seasonal Veggie Set Menu’ (NT$280/NZ$14) was excellent.

---

### Day 2 soundtrack

1. **Seu Jorge – The Life Aquatic Studio Sessions** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/the-life-aquatic-studio-sessions-featuring-seu-jorge/1440916686)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/2tAFOhqz3DxxVI2s5YNsrD))
2. **The Crane – Talent** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/talent/1658029468)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/58AtmygL5FdxGhuEUSnWwF))
3. **Patti Smith – Horses** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/horses/1038568061)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/0OeuSeP8wp8n8OuTqYb61C))
4. **R.E.M. – Collapse Into Now** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/collapse-into-now/1440943959)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/2QfGdHHkWY0zBlwnMtoj9H))
5. **R.E.M. – Accelerate** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/accelerate/1440954691)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/6l1ZSwtU3tTfRrk4Xreiew))

---

### Dashcam timelapse

[youtu.be/E9ipbqLfkZ4](https://youtu.be/E9ipbqLfkZ4)

---