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# Huandao Day 1
- URL: https://www.taiwanquest.com/huandao-kaohsiung-to-kenting/
- Published: 2024-01-08T13:40:21.000Z
- Updated: 2025-11-16T06:31:51.000Z
- Description: Evading the fuzz from Kaohsiung to Kenting…
- Author: Zhen-Kang

| Distance                  | 140 km  |
| ------------------------- | ------- |
| Ride time (with stops)    | 6 hours |
| Photos of me “for church” | 1       |

**Five minutes before starting my 11-day huandao (環島) solo scooter circumnavigation of Taiwan, I was chased by a cop.**

I’d heard someone furiously blowing a whistle in the distance behind me. But I hear a lot of random sounds in Taiwan, so ignored it while I looked for a place to photograph my scooter at the start point: Kaohsiung Music Center.

But when I parked up, I was surprised to see a panicked cop racing towards me on his bicycle, one arm in the air and a whistle still in his mouth.

“You can’t park here” he said, breathlessly, in Chinese. (I think.)

“I’m sorry”, I said in Chinese.

“I’m doing huandao”, I said in Chinese.

I looked for a glimmer of interest in his face, but he was more exasperated than intrigued.

“Is it OK for me to photograph my scooter?”, I asked in mixed sign language, Chinese, and English.

He rolled his eyes, moved a plastic barrier, and gestured for me to push my scooter two meters to the left.

I pulled out my camera and asked “is it OK?” in Chinese.

He said yes, and watched with disdain as I took this pic:

![A scooter parked on the street outside Kaohsiung Music Center. A short, lightweight, yellow-and-black barrier is erected on the other side of the scooter.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/scooter-outside-kaohsiung-music-center-1.jpg)

Parked legally, under observation, two meters from where I broke the law.

I didn’t see the officer’s face as I then took a photo of my watch, but I can only assume he was falling into a deeper despair:

![Close-up of an Apple Watch on a wrist. The time shows 12 o’clock on Monday the 8th. The weather complication shows it’s currently 23ºC.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/apple-watch-12-oclock.jpg)

It was 12 o’clock and time to go. If all goes well, in ten days’ time I’ll be back here at 12, having circumnavigated Taiwan by scooter.

I bowed my head and thanked the officer multiple times. He gave 1% of a smile and waved me off without a ticket. And with that, my huandao had begun!

Around 30 minutes later, as I was nearing the outskirts of Kaohsiung City, I pulled up at the lights with two po-po on scooters to my right. The officer in front noticed the “I’m doing huandao” sticker on my scooter (a gift from a friend), and tilted their head to read it.

But that didn’t matter, because seconds earlier I’d been speeding.

“Don’t make eye contact” I thought.

“Act normal” I thought.

“Where do I usually put my hands when acting normal?” I thought.

I opened my visor, pretending to breathe fresh polluted air, while hoping they’d see I was foreign. (Apparently, police don’t want to deal with illiterate idiots, so they ignore minor infractions by foreigners.)

Then… the light turned green, the police turned right, and I continued on.

![A scooter parked on a narrow road below Dapeng Bay Bridge. The bridge is in its lowered state.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/dapeng-bay-bridge-1.jpg)

Soon I’d crossed the border into Pingtung County. I stopped for a cold drink near Dapeng Bay Bridge (鵬灣跨海大橋). The one time I’d been here before, the bridge was in its raised state to let a yacht sail through. Nanping Seawall Beach (南平海堤沙灘), just across the bridge, was the furthest south I’d been in Taiwan until today.

![Water being aerated in a raised fish farm next to a country road.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/pingtung-fish-farm.jpg)

Soon I was passing fish farms…

![A stray dog laying on a concrete country road, looking at the camera.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/stray-dog-in-pingtung-county.jpg)

…And stray dogs…

![The Maritime Building in the middle of the Dapeng Bay.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/dapeng-bay-maritime-building.jpg)

…Before circling back to take a photo of the famous Dapeng Bay Maritime Building (海上教堂). It’s now an extremely-popular cafe with a cathedral-like interior and a queue of influencers outside. While I was taking this shot, a local in his 20s came up to me and asked (in English) “Can I take a photo of you for my church?”

![A historic concrete-and-brick seaplane traffic control tower. Vending machines and human-sized robot figures stand outside.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/dapeng-seaplane-control-tower.jpg)

This nearby tower—now an ice cream shop—was originally used for seaplane traffic control.

![A scooter parked on a tiled path next to a stony beach and a calm sea.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/scooter-parked-next-to-taiwan-beach-1.jpg)

Back on the road, I followed the coastline south towards Kenting National Park.

![A long exposure of Kenting Baishawan Beach. The sand looks warm and golden, and the water is a vibrant, clear, azure blue. There are few people on the beach.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/kenting-baishawan-beach.jpg)

I had a late lunch here, on Kenting Baishawan Beach (墾丁白沙灣). It reminds me of [Abel Tasman National Park](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/nelson-tasman/places/abel-tasman-national-park/?tab-id=50578). While I was eating, for maybe 15 or 20 minutes, a man stood motionless 10 meters to my right, looking out to sea. I wish I could be half as good at contemplation. But later, while I was taking this photo, he drove off on a very-cool-but-obnoxiously-loud motorbike, ruining everyone else’s contemplative efforts.

![A spiral concrete sculpture on a wooden viewing platform. One person is sitting on the handrailing. The ocean is in the distance.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/southern-most-point-of-taiwan.jpg)

From the beach, I rode 20 minutes south to my B&B, checked in, then rode another 20 minutes to this spot: the southern-most point of Taiwan. There wasn’t much to see, but I’m glad I saw it.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/eluanbi-lighthouse.jpg)

Minutes after sunset, my final stop of the day was Taiwan’s southern-most lighthouse, Eluanbi (鵝鑾鼻燈塔).

For reasons I don’t understand, it felt apt to end my first day at the southern-most part of Taiwan.

Tomorrow, I’ll start my four-day journey up the eastern coast.

I had an excellent first day. There was even a moment, ambling down the coast at 70km/h, listening to music, and enjoying the scenery and the absence of police, when I had an undeniable feeling of self-actualization.

I feel stupid writing that, but it’s true.

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### Day 1 soundtrack

1. **Mylo – Destry Rock & Roll** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/destroy-rock-roll-2005-remaster/1499881419)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/4e11DiZpAGX40btgoYdfDd))
2. **Fleetwood Mac – The Very Best of** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/the-very-best-of-fleetwood-mac-remastered/593327799)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/600CiKJo7zfaBJKnkThbyD))
3. **Ryan Adams – 1989** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/1989/1440829846)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/0MVK1j7wrUkBZ09ZuMURJA))

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### Dashcam timelapse

[youtu.be/YR8nJGRFn\_o](https://youtu.be/YR8nJGRFn%5Fo)

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