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# Huandao Day 4
- URL: https://www.taiwanquest.com/huandao-hualien-to-yilan/
- Published: 2024-01-11T14:41:26.000Z
- Updated: 2025-01-19T04:55:50.000Z
- Description: All things spectacular from Hualien to Yilan…
- Author: Zhen-Kang

| Distance               | 140 km  |
| ---------------------- | ------- |
| Ride time (with stops) | 5 hours |
| Flying trains          | 1       |

**After breakfast at an interesting Starbucks (not an oxymoron), I didn’t stop at any special locations on my ride to Yilan—but the journey was spectacular.**

![A Starbucks building made of four stories of stacked shipping containers projecting outwards at right angles.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/hualien-shipping-container-starbucks.jpg)

I had breakfast at this Starbucks made of shipping containers.

![Interior of a shipping container Starbucks, showing wooden floors and a mix of wood-paneled and exposed metal walls.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/hualien-shipping-container-starbucks-interior-1.jpg)

The second-floor’s divided into a dozen different spaces.

![A large window looks out over a carpark at the end of one of the shipping containers. A bench seat and small round tables line the right wall.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/hualien-shipping-container-starbucks-interior-2.jpg)

Some have views of the carpark (and mountains).

![A two-seater leather couch in a small nook, with the words ‘flavor’ and ‘fusion’ on a bold mural behind it.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/hualien-shipping-container-starbucks-interior-3.jpg)

The areas without windows were also cozy.

![A small round wooden table and two cushioned stools next to a floor-to-ceiling window.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/hualien-shipping-container-starbucks-interior-4.jpg)

But the window seats were most popular.

![A rich, warm space with wooden floors and walls, and wooden cafe chairs and tables. Spaces with exposed metal walls are visible beyond.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/hualien-shipping-container-starbucks-interior-5.jpg)

I avoided photographing other customers, but in actuality the Starbucks was 50% full when I visited. It’s a clever space.

![A motorcycle parked on the side of a one-lane road through the middle of a grassy cemetery.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/road-through-a-taiwanese-cemetery.jpg)

Soon I was riding north. Within the first 30 minutes, I was on a road that went through a cemetery.

![The entrance to a two-lane road tunnel through a mountain.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/tunnel-on-hualien-yilan-road.jpg)

Then I was back in the mountains. I rode through perhaps a dozen tunnels; some were multiple kilometers long. One was undulating, with gentle curves all the way through. Like real-life **Mario Kart*. The outside air was cold—maybe 13ºC—but it was pleasant in the tunnels. Maybe 10ºC warmer. I looked forward to each one.

![A wide-angle shot of a stunning piece of coastline, with jungle-clad mountains rising from the sea. A narrow road hugs the side of an extremely-steep cliff in the distance.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/dramatic-roads.jpg)

The roads often hugged the cliffs. There were continuous safety barriers on the right side, but some looked safer than others.

![A roadsign showing a monkey.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/monkey-road-sign-in-taiwan.jpg)

Monkey warning!

![A monkey on a two-lane mountain road, walking towards the forest on the left side.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/monkey-on-road.jpg)

A minute later, I rounded a corner and saw four monkeys on the road ahead. Three of them jumped away before I got close enough for my dashcam to capture the fourth.

![A selfie of the author, Zhen-Kang, in front of a motorcycle, on a two-lane mountain road overlooking the Philippine Sea. Zhen-Kang is wearing sunglasses and a motorcycle helmet.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/motorcyclist-selfie-on-taiwan-clifftop-road.jpg)

A friend told me the road between Hualien and Yilan is his favorite. I agree it’s spectacular, and is probably my favorite as well. Today I thought a lot about how it felt to be on this road, here in Taiwan, at this moment. And how I could not have imagined this scenario as recently as two years ago. The me of January 2022 would not wholly recognize the me of January 2024\. In New Zealand I had a good, full life. In Taiwan I have that too, but in more adventurous ways.

![Exterior of Bobo Pizza restaurant. A sign in front says ‘Maybe The Best Pizza in the Known Universe. By Chef François’.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/bobo-pizza-yilan.jpg)

I met that same friend in Yilan City for dinner. Bobo Pizza claims to be “Maybe The Best Pizza in the Known Universe”.

![A 12-inch pizza on a thin base, rich in toppings such as basil leaves, onion, tomato, peppers, capsicum, chillies, corn, and chicken.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/bobo-pizza.jpg)

That’s a definite maybe. It was an easy 10.

![An large-scale public art installation of a half-real-size steam engine pulling four carriages full of cartoonish figures. The train is suspended from giant forest-like steel structures and appears to be flying on illuminated rails. About 5 meters below the train, three people are walking through this space carrying shopping bags.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/5e/e3/5ee3f160-68a0-49ef-af6f-ec70abc1d13e/content/images/2024/01/yilan-express-flying-train.jpg)

After dinner, we walked around the city center. Opposite Yilan Station, we saw this impressive installation: the flying Yilan Express. A day with monkeys, pizza, and a flying train, is definitely a good day.

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### Day 4 soundtrack

1. **Drum Tower** ([Podcast](https://www.economist.com/audio/podcasts/drum-tower))
2. **Caroline Polachek – Desire, I Want to Turn Into You** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/desire-i-want-to-turn-into-you/1669095245)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/22PkV1Le9P3X4RY4xtmK0q))
3. **Ladi6 – The Liberation of…** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/the-liberation-of/1524478178)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/0x5It9pZDvvkfzn3t9JoQU))
4. **OSN – #osnrap** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/osnrap/1460167114)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/4b65l6XzLp2Eg6lDTMmO1k))
5. **Slash – Slash** ([Apple Music](https://music.apple.com/us/album/slash/715678660)) ([Spotify](https://open.spotify.com/album/5PmI6apXuMeGZuv9ninvl6))

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### Dashcam timelapse

[youtu.be/Tmo0pM1Mgp0](https://youtu.be/Tmo0pM1Mgp0)

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